Snow Chains Explained: TractionX Manual (MX) vs Automatic (AX), Sizing, and When You Need Them

If you are driving to Spiti, Ladakh, Sissu, Auli or any high-altitude winter route between roughly December and March, you should carry a pair of snow chains, and for most overlanders the TractionX AX (automatic, self-tensioning) is the right pick because it fits in 3 to 5 minutes per wheel with no need to move the vehicle after the first stop. The TractionX MX (manual) is cheaper and just as grippy, but it needs you to drive forward a few metres and re-tension, which is a real hassle in deep cold. You fit chains to the driven axle (or all four if you can), size them to your exact tyre dimension, and you need them the moment you hit packed snow or black ice - not after you are already stuck. Here is the complete breakdown.

Both are steel link chains that wrap your tyre tread to bite into snow and ice. The difference is the tensioning system. The TractionX MX (manual) uses a traditional chain-and-hook closure: you lay it over the tyre, connect the inner cable behind the wheel, drape the chain over the front, drive forward about half a wheel rotation, then come back and tighten the outer tensioner by hand. The TractionX AX (automatic) adds a self-tensioning ratchet and a sprung outer ring that pulls the chain taut as you connect it, so it seats correctly on the first attempt without the drive-forward step. In our cold-soak testing at -18C, the AX averaged 3 to 5 minutes per wheel; the MX took 7 to 10 minutes including the re-tension lap, and bare-handed fiddling in that cold is genuinely painful.

Which one should you buy - MX or AX?

Buy the AX if you value speed, you are likely fitting chains in the dark or in falling snow, or you are not confident doing fiddly mechanical work in deep cold - which describes most people. Buy the MX if budget is tight, you are experienced and patient, or you want a rugged spare set to keep permanently in the boot. The traction performance on snow is effectively identical because the link pattern and steel are the same; you are paying purely for the convenience of the self-tensioning mechanism on the AX. For a first-time winter overlander, we recommend the AX without hesitation.

• TractionX AX: self-tensioning, 3 to 5 minutes per wheel, no drive-forward step, best for cold-weather speed and beginners.
• TractionX MX: manual hook closure, 7 to 10 minutes per wheel, needs a re-tension lap, cheaper and bombproof.
• Both: hardened steel links, identical bite on packed snow and ice.
• Both: must be sized to your exact tyre - a wrong size is dangerous or will not fit.
• Carry a pair minimum; carry two pairs (all four wheels) for the most demanding ice.

How do you size snow chains to your tyre?

Read the three numbers on your tyre sidewall - for example 255/65 R17 - and match them to the TractionX size chart, because chains are sold to fit a narrow band of widths, aspect ratios and rim diameters. The first number (255) is the tread width in millimetres, the second (65) is the sidewall height as a percent of width, and R17 is the rim diameter. A chain sized for a Mahindra Thar on 255/65 R18 will not safely fit a Suzuki Jimny on 195/80 R15. Getting this wrong is not a minor inconvenience: a chain that is too large can slap the wheel arch and tear a brake line, while one too small simply will not close. If your size sits between two listings, contact us with the full sidewall code before ordering rather than guessing.

Here is how the sizing maps to the vehicles people actually drive, so you can see why one chain never fits all. A Jimny on 195/80 R15 is a small, narrow tyre and takes a correspondingly small chain. A Thar on 255/65 R18 - or the same Thar built on 255/70 R16 - needs a chain matched to that wider, taller tyre and that rim diameter. A Gurkha on a tall-narrow 255/85 R16 is different again. A Hilux on 265/70 R17 is wider still. The aspect ratio matters as much as the width: a 255/65 and a 255/85 share a tread width but stand at very different heights, so they need different chains. The rule is simple and unforgiving - match all three numbers on your sidewall to the chart, and if your exact size is not listed or sits on a boundary, send us the full code and let us confirm before you buy. A guessed size is the one mistake that turns safety kit into a torn brake line on a dark pass.

Do you legally or practically need snow chains for Spiti and Ladakh in winter?

Practically, yes - on packed snow and black ice, even an all-wheel-drive Thar or Gurkha on all-terrain tyres will slide without chains, and winter-spec mountain stretches like the approach to Atal Tunnel, Kunzum, or the Sach Pass corridor regularly have sections where chains are the difference between moving and sliding toward an edge. Legally, India does not run a blanket chain-law the way some Alpine countries do, but local authorities, the BRO and the police can and do mandate chains or turn back unequipped vehicles when conditions are bad, and Atal Tunnel rules have at times required winter tyres or chains. Treat chains as mandatory safety kit for high winter routes regardless of whether a sign says so. The practical need almost always precedes any legal one.

We have watched capable 4x4s on good all-terrains slide gently sideways toward a drop on black ice while a chained vehicle drove past without drama. Chains are not about getting unstuck - they are about staying in control before you ever lose it. Fit them at the bottom of the climb, not halfway up when your wheels are already spinning.

Front, rear or all four wheels - where do chains go?

Fit chains to the driven axle as the minimum, and to all four wheels when you can for the best control. On a part-time four-wheel-drive Thar, Jimny or Gurkha running in 4H, the front axle is doing the steering and a major share of the traction, so a single pair goes on the front. If you only have one pair and you are in rear-wheel drive, they go on the rear. The ideal for sustained ice driving is two pairs on all four wheels, which balances braking and steering grip and dramatically shortens stopping distance - downhill on ice is where most winter incidents happen, and chained front wheels do little for a vehicle whose rear is sliding. If budget forces one pair, prioritise the axle that drives, but understand the limitation.

How fast can you drive with chains on, and how do you look after them?

Keep speed under 40 to 50 kmph with chains fitted, avoid bare tarmac wherever possible, and remove them the moment the road clears to dry asphalt. Chains are for snow and ice; running them on dry road wears the links fast, hammers your driveline and can throw a link. After use, rinse off road salt and grit, dry them fully before storing to prevent rust, and lay them in their bag flat so they are easy to untangle next time at -15C with cold fingers. A quick spray of light oil before long-term storage keeps the steel and the AX tensioner mechanism working smoothly for years.

• Maximum speed with chains: 40 to 50 kmph, slower on rough ice.
• Remove chains as soon as you reach bare, dry tarmac.
• Practise fitting once at home in daylight before your trip - never first-time it on a dark pass.
• Rinse, dry fully, and lightly oil before storage to prevent rust and seizing.
• Keep them in an accessible spot, not buried under all your luggage.

How do you actually fit a pair on a cold pass?

The fitment that goes smoothly is the one you have rehearsed. Stop at the base of the icy section on the flattest, safest spot you can find, well off the line of traffic, and put the handbrake on. Pull your chains out of the bag already untangled - this is why you store them flat and laid out. Drape the chain over the top of the tyre, connect the inner cable or ring behind the wheel and seat it as high up the back of the tyre as you can reach, then bring the outer connection together at the front. On the AX, the self-tensioner pulls everything taut as you close it, and you are done; on the MX, you close the hooks, drive forward about half a wheel rotation, and come back to tighten the outer tensioner by hand. Wear gloves - bare skin on cold steel at -15C is genuinely painful and slows you down. Give the chain a tug to confirm it is snug and not slapping, drive a hundred metres, and re-check the tension once before you commit to the climb. The whole job is three to five minutes a wheel on the AX once you have practised it in your driveway in daylight, which is exactly why we tell every customer to do that dry run before the trip.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use snow chains on an all-wheel-drive vehicle?

Yes. For a full-time or part-time four-wheel-drive vehicle, the best practice is chains on all four wheels for balanced traction and braking. If you have only one pair, fit them to the front axle on most modern 4x4s because it handles steering and a large traction share, but be aware that your unchained axle will have far less grip, especially when braking downhill.

Are TractionX chains hard to fit the first time?

The AX self-tensioning model is designed for quick, beginner-friendly fitment and takes most people 3 to 5 minutes per wheel once they have practised once. The MX manual version is a little more involved because of the drive-forward and re-tension step. We strongly recommend a dry run in your driveway in daylight so the real fitment on a cold, snowy road is familiar rather than frightening.

Will snow chains damage my tyres or alloy wheels?

Correctly sized chains fitted and tensioned properly will not damage tyres or alloys. Damage happens when a chain is the wrong size and slaps the arch, when it is left too loose, or when you drive too fast or on bare tarmac. Stick to the size chart, tension correctly, stay under 50 kmph, and remove them on dry road and you will be fine.

Do I need winter tyres as well as chains?

Winter or all-terrain tyres improve grip in cold and light snow and should be your baseline for any winter trip, but they are not a substitute for chains on packed snow and black ice. Chains are the tool for the worst surfaces. Think of good tyres as the everyday foundation and chains as the emergency-and-steep-ice equipment you deploy when the surface turns truly slick.